Introduction by Andrea Pavan
This year, all members of the Melloblocco will have the opportunity to climb some of the boulder problems that have signed the history of bouldering in the Valley. The circuits proposed are united by an ideal thread that leads the climber from the solar Visido to the heart of the Val di Mello, where it all started back in the 70s.
The first path, the path of „Sassisti“, offers some of the first steps in the Valley rose from the middle of the 70s, in which case you will notice that the lines go up manly slabs with few overhangs.
The middle path, the path of „Melàt“, includes passages risen since the 80s until the late 90s. You will notice that the previous period steps not only rise up: born the first steps in sideways.
The latest proposal, the path of „Gigiat“, offers a choice between so-called „classical difficult“; open passages too many years ago but have always given up the match for the repeaters. Each step is characterized by its own style, which makes this circuit a challenge even for strong ones!
At the base of the boulder will be placed a pine cone with the colour of the circuit. The beauty is also the research of the rock, the line, the passage! Always check the paths of descent that can sometimes be anything but trivial, especially when damp or wet rock. In search of the stone will help the map printed in the back of the map Melloblocco and if you can not find it, the new guide Melloboulder eliminate any uncertainty.
MELLOBOULDER by Andrea Pavan, ed. Versante Sud http://www.melloblocco.it/en/notizie/mello-boulder-2015-by-andrea-pavan-the-new-guide-book-at-melloblocco-2015/
Melloblocco 2015: masterpiece climbing circuits in the valley of bouldering http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42678
ISTRUZIONI PER L’USO
I blocchi dei circuiti sono indicati in loco da una pigna d’abete colorata: gialla per circuito Sassisti; arancio per circuito Melat; rosso per circuito Gigiat. Segnala allo stand Melloblocco entro sabato 2 maggio i blocchi che hai salito in autocertificazione. Verrai inserito nel „club dei sassisti“ pubblicato su www.melloblocco.it. Graditi foto e video delle salite (posta su instagram con gli hashtag #melloblocco #mellocircuit, o invia file o link a email@example.com)
THE CIRCUITS 1: I Sassisti (5-6A) – YELLOW
This takes the name from the historic climbers who first explored the valley’s bouldering potential in the 70s. The circuit brings to the forefront their initial achievements. How can one not marvel at the beauty of the moves, bold and revolutionary for their time, on the boulders such as Tendine dello Yeti, Preda Peintada or Masso della Luna?
- Il tendine dello Yeti
- Il masso del tetto
- Il panino
- La preda peintada
- Masso del Francese
- Masso dell’Ivan
- I tre strapiombi dei veronesi
- Muro di Jessica
- Masso della luna
2: IL MELÀT (6B-6C) – ORANGE
The Melat were the ancient inhabitants of the Val di Mello and their megalithic stones steps are testament to the strength and tenacity needed to reach the most remote and inaccessible pastures. You will certainly require a good deal of strength and endurance climb all ten problems in this circuit that includes authentic works of art such as il Francese or il Sass de la Polenta.
- Il diedrino del Rudi
- L’arco del tetto
- Preda peintada
- Il francese
- Dr. Zero (stand)
- Masso della grotta
- Il lupo
- Il traverso della polenta
- Moby Dick
3: IL GIGIÀT (7A-7B) – RED The most difficult circuit had to be dedicated to Gigiat: a monstrous, legendary and gigantic being, a cross between a goat and an ibex with long fur. Legend has it that it lives in the forests and among the boulders of Val Masino. Few can claim to have seen him! Completing this circuit and sending some emblematic granite problems such as Vermut Stisciut and Spigolo della Carrozza di Rame means you’re a „master of stone.”
- Lo strapiombo (di sinistra)
- Andrea si è perso (diretto)
- Vermuth Strisciut
- Devil and Dust
- Fat Boy Slim
- Zero in condotta
- Il francese (la placca)
- Spigolo della carrozza di rame
Arte del Buciun di Chicco Fanchi e Pierangelo Marchetti, tra le prime guide di bouldering d’Italia 1984