MELLOBLOCCO 2012 – The desire to be there beats the rain

Sunday 6 May 2012. The final day of the 9th Melloblocco ended with some magic by Russian Alexey Rubtsov who managed to send, in the rain, the problem Ombre Multidimensionali. 2200 climbers took part in the event. The competition was won by Shauna Coxsey, Michele Caminati, Anthony Gullsten and Alexey Rubtsov. Despite the rain on Saturday and Sunday the world’s biggest international bouldering meeting turned out to be a success. And preparations are already underway in Val Masino – Val di Mello for next year’s 10th edition.

A Melloblocco marked by rain, and a Melloblocco marked by its parties and little inventions. For the second day running the Melloblockers woke up “wet” this morning in Val Masino, meaning that the weather during these last four days provided a Solomon-like draw: 2 days of brilliant sunshine, and 2 days of rain. In truth though, regardless of this outcome, there were some real winners. Namely all those who resisted in the rain and invented a thousand ways to remain in the valley, to be there until the very end. And Val Masino itself surely won, after having hosted a great party last night which united the Centro Polifunzionale della Montagna at Filorera with San Martino. This took place beneath a massive downpour which continued, incessantly, to be the (undesired) guest. So much so that in the end many didn’t even notice the rain anymore, especially seeing that their desire to dance and have fun was overriding. What was also overriding was t Alexey Rubtsov’s desire to climb and innate class; the Russian champion sent the problem “Ombre Multidimensionali”, naturally in the rain. His performance, or rather passion, was truly spectacular and his resistance to all this rain was almost legendary!

(di Vinicio Stefanello su Planetmountain.com)

Per il racconto completo leggi qui/For the full report read here

( foto VIP)

Partecipanti/Participants

      • Iscritti/Registered: 2.217
      • Italiani/Italians: 1.891
      • Stranieri/Foreigners: 326 (from 43 Countries)
      • Donne/Women: 500
      • Uomini/Men: 1.717
      • Presenze in Valle/People in the Valley: 4.000

(galleria: 4 foto)

Aree del Melloblocco e Tracciatura /Melloblocco areas and Boulder setting

Bagni di Masino, Bregolana, Campo Sportivo, Pesgunfi, Val di Mello; Simone Pedeferri (ITA)

cleaning&setting1

Chi ha salito più blocchi a premio/Who sent more award boulders

Donne/Women (n. top/flash)

  • Shauna Coxsey (GBR) 5 (2)
  • Barbara Zangerl (AUT) 4 (1)
  • Ekaterina Andreeva (RUS) 4 (1)
  • Olga Iakovleva (RUS) 4 (1)
  • Irene Bariani (ITA) 3 (2)
  • Alexandra Balakireva (RUS) 3 (0)
  • Natalia Vasylenko (RUS) 3 (1)
  • Anne Laure Chevrier (FRA) 3 (1)

prize-boulder-women

Uomini/Men (n. top/flash)

  • Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) 3 (0)
  • Anthony Gullsten (FIN) 3 (0)
  • Michele Caminati (ITA) 3 (0)
  • Gabriele Moroni (ITA) 2 (0)
  • Klemen Becan (SLO) 2 (0)
  • Jernes Kruder (SLO) 2 (0)
  • Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR) 2 (0)

prize-boulder-men

Altri personaggi presenti/More VIPs attending

Adam Ondra (CZE), Angelika Rainer (ITA), Anna Gallyamova  (RUS), Anna Stoehr (AUT), Bernardino Lagni (ITA), Caroline Ciavaldini (FRA), Chris Sharma (USA), Cody Roth (USA), Daila Ojeda (ESP), Enzo Oddo (FRA), Katharina Sauerwein (AUT), Kilian Fischhuber (AUT), Hansjorg Auer (AUT), Jacopo Larcher (ITA), James Pearson (GBR), Jorg Verhoven (NED), Yulia Abramchuk (RUS), Lisa Benetti (ITA), Lucas Preti (ITA), Mauro Calibani (ITA), Melissa Le Neve (FRA), Nalle Hukkataival (ITA), Olga Shalagina (UKR), Philippe Ribiere (FRA), Pietro dal Prà (ITA), Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP), Roberta Longo (ITA), Sasha Digiulian (USA), Sara Morandi (ITA), Silvio Reffo (ITA), Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA).

VIP

Foto ufficiali/Official photos

Qui le foto ufficiali di Claudio Piscina/The official photos by Claudio Piscina here

2012 official photos

Video ufficiale/Official video

Qui il video ufficiale di Luca Maspes/The official video by Nicola Maspes here:

MELLOBLOCCO 2012 official video – Spirit of – Special Guest: Anna Stor, Kilian Fischhuber, Philippe Ribiere, Alexey Rubstav, Gabriele Moroni, James Person …, by ArsenikoTube – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogS6AS2qLQM

I blocchi a premio/Award boulders

Donne/Women (n. top/flash):

  • Virus Attack (Pesgunfi) 7C 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Black LadyBug (Campo Sportivo) 7B+ 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Il Sogno di Merlino (Bregolana) 7B 3 (1): Shauna Coxsey, Ekaterina Andreeva, Sasha Digiulian Flash
  • Quarzo Liquido (Campo Sportivo) 7B+ 4 (0): Yulia Abramchuk, Roberta Longo, Barbara Zangerl, Olga Iakovleva
  • Il Baffo di Dalì (Bregolana) 7B 8 (1): Anne Laure Chevrier, Natalia Vasylenko, Ekaterina Andreeva, Alexandra Balakireva, Shauna Coxsey Flash, Olga Iakovleva, Barbara Zangerl, Kaddy Lehmann
  • Muschiosauro (Bagni Vecchia Strada) 7B/C 2 (1): Barbara Zangerl, Shauna Coxsey Flash
  • Mellospigolo (Bregolana) 7A+10 (3): Alexandra Balakireva, Ekaterina Andreeva, Shauna Coxsey, Irene Bariani, Natalia Vasylenko, Anne Laure Chevrier Flash, Michela Lacchio Flash, Dorine Trousseau, Olga Iakovleva, Sasha Digiulian Flash
  • Miss Manta (Pesgunfi) 6C 8 (4): Marina Pauli, Giovanna Pozzoli Flash, Daniela Feroleto, Martina Frigerio,  Paola Radice, Anna Borella Flash,  Martina Giorello Flash,  Irene Bariani Flash
  • La Dama del Sole (Bregolana) 6C+ 26 (11): Sara Morandi Flash, Martina Giorello Flash, Paola Radice, Anna Borella, Roberta Longo Flash, Natalia Vasylenko, Michela Lacchio Flash, Anne Laure Chevrier Flash, Dorine Trousseau, Ekaterina Andreeva Flash, Nadya Gallynova Flash, Alexandra Balakireva Flash, Kaddy Lehmann, Olga Iakovleva Flash, Shauna Coxsey, Tjasa Rutar, Irene Bariani Flash, Daniela Feroleto, Marina Pauli, Barbara Zangerl Flash, Martina Frigerio, Giovanna Pozzoli, Giulia Abramchuk, Claudia Zangerl, Alessandra Tognela, Laura Masi

Uomini/Men (n. top/flash):

  • Rotolone (Bregolana) N.L. 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Megalodonte (Campo Sportivo) N.L. 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Neandertal Standup (Val di Mello) 8B 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • The Black Bird (Bagni Hotel) 8A+ 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Astro Boy (Bregolana) 8B 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Pendragon (Val di Mello) N.L. 0 (0): Not Climbed / Non Salito
  • Sall On Me (Bregolana) 7C/+ 7 (0): Anthony Gullsten, Michele Caminati, Alexey Rubtsov, Gabriele Moroni, Mykhaylo Shalagin, Klemen Becan, Iacopo Capulli
  • Bestiale (Bregolana) 7C+ 9 (0): Mykhaylo Shalgin, Alexey Rubtsov, Klemen Becan, Jernej Kruder, Michele Caminati, Anthony Gullsten, James Garden, Gabriele Moroni, Adam Ondra
  • Ombre Multidimensionali (Bagni Vecchia Strada) 7C/+ 7 (0): Anthony Gullsten, Jernej Kruder, Michele Caminati, Ivailo Radkov Fazata, Martin Smith, Enrico Baistrocchi, Alexey Rubtsov

Melloblocco 2012 - Mappa
More pictures:

flickr-2012

More videos:

  • MELLOBLOCCO 2012 official video – Spirit of – Special Guest: Anna Stor, Kilian Fischhuber, Philippe Ribiere, Alexey Rubstav, Gabriele Moroni, James Person …, by ArsenikoTube – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogS6AS2qLQM
    “MELLOBLOCCO 2012” ANTEPRIMA – Con Simone Pedeferri alla pulizia dei blocchi – La redazione di Mountainblog ha seguito l’operazione di pulizia del blocchi in Val di Mello e Val Masino, accompagnata da uno degli organizzatori …, by MountainBlogTv – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gel4vCG1o7E
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Ramon Julian Puigblanque – Climbing in the gym, by nicolanoe  – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rAxfSPHbAo
  • MelloBlocco 2012 – Michele Caminati – “SALL ON ME”, by superspini – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9hWz66ounc
  • MELLOBLOCCO 2012.wmv – music : “let me be” xavier rudd, by giuliet610 – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t34NNa4tJaY
  • melloblocco 2012, by manudezan – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgoxS2t3bj0
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Shauna Coxsey flashes Mellospigolo, by nicolanoe – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVkrIVkQ4pc
  • Melloblocco 2012 Slacklining “Arcieri della slack” – L’Associazione “Arcieri della Slack” (www.arcieridellaslack.it In collaborazione con l’Organizzazione del Melloblocco (www.melloblocco.it) ha …, by arcieridellaslack – http://www.zapiks.fr/melloblocco-2012-one-sunny-d.html
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Iris Boulder Contest – featuring Kilian Fishhuber, Iris, Stefano Guarnieri, Lorenzo Garavaglia, Nathalie BN, Gabriele Moroni …, by mellobloc – www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzdPFvVce_Q
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Irene Bariani sends Mellospigolo, by nicolanoe – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkm9myhBCFg
  • Il vincitore del Melloblocco 2012!  Ecco il vero vincitore dell’edizione 2012 del Melloblocco (Val di Mello), che riesce a superare con facilità un blocco classificato 24b …, by Giangi735 – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VbiUvqKBZ0
  • outdoor climbing trekking www.aminofood.it Val Masino Melloblocco 2011 Ragni di Lecco, by AminoFood – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrQI_XuND0E
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Katrin Lehmann sends Il Baffo di Dalì on Saturday, while still raining; video by Scott Noy, by mellobloc – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8emKqDaljHU
  • melloblocco 2012, by nicoscud – www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPm-cJISiq4
  • MELLOBLOCCO – BLOCCO DI 6B CON IL MAESTRO “MIAI”, by struscio2010 – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esLAKNyciKo
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Nalle Hukkataival on Il Sogno di Merlino, by nicolanoe – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePIGfcW6uCw
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Sasha Digiulian – Climbing the gym roof, by nicolanoe – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSBcleF583Q
  • Melloblocco 2012 with Adam Ondra on “lifeclimblife” – Bouldering with Adam Ondra. Video by lifeclimblife. Episode 1: Chris Sharma. Featured climbers: Stefany Wehrli, Mattias Braach. Music by …, by lifeclimblife – www.youtube.com/watch?v=zBAI5v84cog
  • Funk Phenomena@ Melloblocco, by TheXina7 – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wdFHZ9O4KU
  • Melloblocco 2012 Swisscoaching on lifeclimblife – Climbing & Bouldering & Swisscoaching. Video by lifeclimblife. Chris Sharma. Featured climbers: Stefany Wehrli, Mattias Braach and Esra Pohle …, by lifeclimblife – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Cn-JYZy4YM
  • Melloblocco 2012 with Chris Sharma on “lifeclimblife” – Featured climbers: Stefany Wehrli, Mattias Braach. Extract of an interview with Chris Sharma. Video by lifeclimblife. Next Episode: Bouldering …, by lifeclimblife – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egkkXB-VMb8
  • BROTHERS CLIMBING the dream of climbing (Magic wood and Melloblocco 2012) – Viaje con destino en Suiza e Italia para visitar las preciosas zonas de boulder de Magic Wood y Val Masino, aprobechando la concentracion del …, by Izan Fuidio – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ossnyavkA8w
  • La Sportiva Zarok: part 2 – strange happened… … La Sportivatube … zarok “la sportiva” “climbing shoes” “climbing movies” boulder “scarpette d’arrampicata” “Lucas Preti …, by LaSportivatube – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yb2_GMMyTTE
  • ZAROK part 3: mello’s attack! per carpirne tutti i segreti… The Zarok’s clan attacks the Melloblocco community. Their goal is to figure out the best kept secrets of the …, by LaSportivatube – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ktg8kdi8Crs
    ZAROK part 4: the climber’s slavery – … “La Sportiva” “Lucas Preti” “Adam Ondra” “Michele Caminati” Boulder Melloblocco Zarok “scarpette d’arrampicata” “funny boulder” “climbing movies” …, by La Sportivahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZl9kpy67DI
  • Anthony Gullsten – Video intervista in Val di Mello – Sportiva”, incontrato in Val di Mello, pochi giorni dopo il Melloblocco 2012 in cui si è classificato nella prima posizione assieme a …, by MountainBlogTv – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1hKKilXwSk
  • NUOVA AREA BOULDER BAGNI DI MASINO – Visita ai massi con Simone Pedeferri – In occasione del Melloblocco 2012, Simone Pedeferri ci ha condotti attraverso i massi della nuova area boulder Bagni di Masino (Val di Mello) …, by MountainBlogTv – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiuCqWy6syw
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Sasha Digiulian flashes Mellospigolo …, by nicolanoe – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRVE-4Q6IWU
  • Амбали і Magic wood – magic wood,скелелазіння,амбали,Швейцарія, Італія,melloblocco, 2012 … abdulhiro … “outdoor sports” “magic wood” melloblocco …, by Abdulhiro – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRLGDeS2lU0
  • Vallanzaska @ MelloBlocco2012 – Ecco cosa succede se i Vallanzaska suonano al Melloblocco… sotto il diluvio universale e con 20 cm di fango per terra …, by superspini – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhSNgPVHz3s
  • “Sound and Vision”, Remenno – Blocco dell’edizione 2010 del Melloblocco, problema femminile (7a/b), by Rampikegno – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2O5BIfZd8O0
  • Michele Caminati Video intervista Val di Mello – la sua passione per il boulder e per l’arrampicata. … Mountain Blog Tv … “Michele Caminati” “La Sportiva” “Val di Mello” climbing boulder …, by MountainBlogTv – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUwiGdEWsPw
  • KILIAN FISCHHUBER E ANNA STOHR – Video interviste in Val di Mello – Mountain Blog Tv … “Kilian Fischhuber” “Anna Stohr” boulder “Val di Mello” Melloblocco climber “La Sportiva” arrampicata interviste …, by MountainBlogTv – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GFcNH7lVMI
  • Melloblocco 2012 – Sasha Digiulian flashes Il Sogno di Merlino, by nicolanoe – www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEMGFCYm_74
  • Melloblocco 2011 – The goat shit kickers embarked on a trip to Melloblocco in northern Italy for lots of bouldering in a beautiful green … Reading – Blokfest 2013/14, by Pumped Monkeywww.vimeo.com/39436745
  • Melloblocco 2012 – The GSKs do Melloblocco… again. After the sunshine in 2011, expectations were high. Despite lots of rain we did manage to climb every day of the trip. Rather than 100% bouldering this year, we managed some ropes and even a few multi-pitches. This video concentrates on one awesome boulder problem; A previous years female competition route called ‘Per Voi Giovani – 7a’, situated in Nosferatu, by Pumped Monkeywww.vimeo.com/46781546
  • Melloblocco 2012 : One (sunny) days with Anthony Gullsten & Michele Caminati – The 2012 edition of the Melloblocco hasn’t been blessed by good weather, but the first day has been pretty epic. Everybody was giving 200 % knowing that the two last days may be spend between Espresso and beers. The energy around was incredible and the landscape stunning! – www.zapiks.fr/melloblocco-2012-one-sunny-d.html
  • Melloblocco 2012 Slacklining “Arcieri della slack” – L’Associazione “Arcieri della Slack” (http://www.arcieridellaslack.it/), In collaborazione con l’Organizzazione del Melloblocco (http://www.melloblocco.it) ha svolto 4 Giorni di Pratica di Slackline nella Splendida cornice della Val di Mello, by Arcieri della Slack Slackliningwww.youtube.com/watch?v=uOrQTj2MjBs
  • NUOVA AREA BOULDER BAGNI DI MASINO – Visita ai massi con Simone Pedeferri – In occasione del Melloblocco 2012, Simone Pedeferri ci ha condotti attraverso i massi della nuova area boulder Bagni di Masino (Val di Mello), illustrandoci le operazioni di pulizia realizzate e le caratteristiche dei sassi – www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiuCqWy6syw

 

RASSEGNA STAMPA/PRESS RELEASE 2012

press release

 

Tutta la rassegna stampa / all-time press release