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2012
3-6 May
Melloblocco, a passionate battle
Sun, rain, boulder problems and parties for 2200 people during the ninth edition of Melloblocco 2012. Our final report of the world’s most important bouldering meeting which took place in Val Masino - Val di Mello from 3 to 6 May. “You see those patches of blue in the sky. It’s the rain that goes, and the serene returns.” Here we go again, Melloblocco has got the better of me once more. There I was, leaving the valley, when that old song by the Rokes (God bless Shel Shapiro!) entered my brain. And right then, at the edge of the road and next to the river, four diehards got ready to climb their small boulder problem. Back up there, in the crowded gym, people were still bidding their ritual farewells to the Melloblocco. Around me everything reminded me of the last two days of floods... And then blue dots began to make their appearance in the sky. While up above, the snow sparkled down onto legendary Val di Mello. When the game had practically come to an end the rain disappeared and out came the sun. We’d been cheated, surely... for want of a better definition. Nevertheless though, I still felt as if I’d just experienced a great Melloblocco, one of the best even. But why?
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Discover the technical data.
Participants
Registered: 2.217, Italians: 1.891, Foreigners: 326 (from 43 Countries), Women: 500, Men: 1.717, People in the Valley: 4.000
Melloblocco areas and boulder setters:
Bagni di Masino, Bregolana, Campo Sportivo, Pesgunfi, Val di Mello; Simone Pedeferri (ITA).
Prize-award boulders
https://www.versantesud.it/prodotto/mello-boulder-blocchi-in-val-masino/
Women(n. top/flash): Virus Attack (Pesgunfi) 7C 0 (0), Black LadyBug (Campo Sportivo) 7B+ 0 (0), Il Sogno di Merlino (Bregolana) 7B 3 (1), Quarzo Liquido (Campo Sportivo) 7B+ 4 (0), Il Baffo di Dalì (Bregolana) 7B 8 (1), Muschiosauro (Bagni Vecchia Strada) 7B/C 2 (1), Mellospigolo (Bregolana) 7A+ 10 (3), Miss Manta (Pesgunfi) 6C 8 (4), La Dama del Sole (Bregolana) 6C+ 26 (11).
Men (n. top/flash): Rotolone (Bregolana) N.L. 0 (0), Megalodonte (Campo Sportivo) N.L. 0 (0), Neandertal Standup (Val di Mello) N.L. 8B 0 (0), The Black Bird (Bagni Hotel) N.L. 8A+ 0 (0), Astro Boy (Bregolana) N.L. 8B 0 (0), Pendragon (Val di Mello) N.L. 0 (0), Sall On Me (Bregolana) 7C/+ 7 (0), Bestiale (Bregolana) 7C+ 9 (0), Ombre Multidimensionali (Bagni Vecchia Strada) 7C/+ 7 (0).
Who has climbed the most prize boulders
Women (n. top/flash): Shauna Coxsey (GBR) 5 (2), Barbara Zangerl (AUT) 4 (1), Ekaterina Andreeva (RUS) 4 (1), Olga Iakovleva (RUS) 4 (1), Alexandra Balakireva (RUS) 3 (0), Anne Laure Chevrier (FRA) 3 (1), Irene Bariani (ITA) 3 (2), Natalia Vasylenko (RUS) 3 (1).
Men (n. top/flash): Alexey Rubtsov (RUS) 3 (0), Anthony Gullsten (FIN) 3 (0), Michele Caminati (ITA) 3 (0), Gabriele Moroni (ITA) 2 (0), Klemen Becan (SLO) 2 (0), Jernes Kruder (SLO) 2 (0), Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR) 2 (0).
Other VIP present
Adam Ondra (CZE), Angelika Rainer (ITA), Anna Gallyamova (RUS), Anna Stoehr (AUT), Bernardino Lagni (ITA), Caroline Ciavaldini (FRA), Chris Sharma (USA), Cody Roth (USA), Daila Ojeda (ESP), Enzo Oddo (FRA), Katharina Sauerwein (AUT), Kilian Fischhuber (AUT), Hansjorg Auer (AUT), Jacopo Larcher (ITA), James Pearson (GBR), Jorg Verhoven (NED), Yulia Abramchuk (RUS), Lisa Benetti (ITA), Lucas Preti (ITA), Mauro Calibani (ITA), Melissa Le Neve (FRA), Nalle Hukkataival (ITA), Olga Shalagina (UKR), Philippe Ribiere (FRA), Pietro dal Prà (ITA), Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP), Roberta Longo (ITA), Sasha Digiulian (USA), Sara Morandi (ITA), Silvio Reffo (ITA), Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA)
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